Alaia Prodigious Fashion Masterpieces
- Posted by: angeli.krohmal
Man is always beckoned by everything mysterious and everything beautiful. And in the fashion world there is a brand about which there are many more questions than answers. But nevertheless, the beauty of this designer's creations is equated to high art. What do we know about Azzedine Alaia and what is a truly beautiful woman in his eyes?
The future great fashion designer was born in Tunisia in 1935 (although according to some data it is not the exact date of birth - the creator did not like to answer this question). Initially in Azzedine's family, no one was not connected with the world of fashion, or even with the world of art. His parents were farmers, and his grandfather worked at the police station, where he took his grandson very often. The boy's interest in human beauty and clothes was influenced by 2 contradictory factors: his sister, who, like any girl, wanted to dress beautifully, and the pictures that people brought to the police station. Apparently, this played a key role in Azzedine's desire to be close to beauty and determined his entire future life.
At the suggestion of his beloved grandfather, the young man decided to enter the École des Beaux-Arts, but he had to study sculpture. It was important for the future designer to immerse himself in the refined French culture, and he didn't think too much about how exactly he wanted to use his knowledge. Nevertheless, the knowledge of the smallest and finest forms of the human body will help him a lot in the future when creating dizzying outfits. Already during his studies he gradually mastered the art of cutting and sewing, and during vacations he returned home, where he helped in the local small atelier.
Later on at the start of his career, an amazing thing happened: the young talent managed to get acquainted with Dior. There are different reports that say that Azzedine was recommended by the clients of the atelier in his hometown, or that he went to get a tailor in the star atelier himself. But this stage was not destined to last long: due to political tensions in the eastern region, natives of those countries were ordered to leave France. Azzedine worked in Dior for only 5 days.
But the young master was not afraid to continue to pursue his dream in the country he adored. He sought refuge with one of his noble clients, the Countess de Blégier, and, living in her house, continued sewing clothes to order. After a couple of years, he managed to get a job at the Guy Laroche brand, where he gained great experience in proper sewing, honing his professionalism.
Azzedine also opened his first independent micro-atelier with the help of his already friend Countess and for almost 2 decades he worked privately for the highest dignitaries, actresses, members of the aristocracy. Models came to him for fitting right in the same small apartment where creative chaos reigned.
For the first time Alaia brand dresses were published on the cover of Elle magazine in 1979 and were immediately bombarded with demand and fame. A year later, Azzedine created his first pret-a-porte collection, moved to a larger space in the Marais district of Paris, and hosted a fashion show that was attended by many celebrities. Many new headlines and articles immediately follow.
The 80s can be called the height of Alaia's popularity. Fashion magazines were full of praise, and any creative person (especially a woman) was eager to meet the brand and, if they were lucky, the maestro himself. His work was adored by Madonna, and the great five supermodels regularly had the honor to pose in new outfits.
An interesting incident allowed Azzedine to extend his fame to America. His incredible coat, worn by Andrea Putman, was noticed by a popular buyer of the time, Bergdorf Goodman. Having contacted the designer, he offered his services and helped to make the American public aware of the elegant and seductive clothes of the Alaia brand.
Unfortunately, in the 90's the designer suffered a tragedy, which affected the usual rhythm of work - his sister died, who contributed a lot to the formation of the great maestro. However, after some time Azzedine still finds strength and by the beginning of the new century creates a new collection, thus marking the internal changes. The new Alaia now looks more restrained and elegant. The collection features flowing fabrics, romantic floral prints and a hint of business style. Towards the end of the decade, the couturier decided to collaborate with Prada, leaving only the Paris boutique, private clients and the direct creation of collections in his personal management. This experience was beneficial and in the 2010s Azzedine returned to full-scale management of the brand. He launches a new collection where he returns to his favorite accents in the form of perforated materials and very feminine silhouettes with narrow waists, but works in lighter romantic fabrics.
In 2017, the great couturier left this world. The brand now employs Peter Mullier, who is committed to continuing to emphasize the brand's DNA. He collaborates with the same colleagues who worked at the brand during the founder's lifetime.
Azzedine and the people
The designer was an incredibly kind and outgoing person. There were rumors that for a while he worked in Mugler, but later the couturier himself said that with Thierry they were connected exactly by friendship and love for creating beautiful things, but in the fashion house of a friend Alaia only helped with advice.
His protégé, the famous Naomi Campbell, spoke of Alaia as her father. He gave a start to her great career and tutored her while Naomi learned the art of posing and fashion show, regularly helping Azzedine at the fitting of his new collections.
Another muse of the designer - Greta Garbo, was a kind of prototype for the formation of images of models at Alaia shows. Her austere and strong beauty is reflected in the languid red lips and Hollywood wave of hairstyles when showing the new dresses.
Many of the models who worked and befriended him declared that Azzedine was a true artist: he could work deep past midnight, and then wake up the next day and sew further at 9am. He was never averse to altering something in his creation to bring the result to perfection. Alaïa was one of the few designers of the 20th century who did not just draw sketches and give them to seamstresses, but made his own patterns. As a result, almost every model was about 30% handmade by him. He treated criticism leniently, but never allowed anyone to redesign his work, not even those closest to him. His most inspiring example was Cristobal Balenciaga, but Azzedine never copied his style, but only gained experience.
Alaia Woman
The silhouettes and styles of Alaia's dresses are unmistakable. Already in the 80's he was called a fortune teller for the fact that he promoted the quiet power of female sexuality in his models a little earlier than others. For Azzedine it was important to show every curve of a woman's body without crossing the line of vulgarity and frivolity. He loved working with perforations and tight cuts, no matter the length - it was he who made stretching textiles popular. In his works can be seen and hypertrophied asymmetry, in particular very voluminous shoulders, which further emphasized the narrow waist. It, by the way, the couturier often formed with the help of corsets, he looked for inspiration in the dresses of the late Middle Ages. Often used predatory prints, with a fully leopard dress can be safely put on in the theater or at an aristocratic reception. The master also loved aggressive accents: his leather and suede products, from coats to accessories, instantly made a woman look femme fatale. He had a special passion for wide belts, more like "independent" corsets: such belts could be easily incorporated both into a relaxed oversize outfit and additionally draw attention to the waist in a tight dress. The couturier never chased after excessive decoration, both in clothes and accessories - he believed that the main image is a woman and his dress, which she wore. Each creation showed the great individualism of the master, who never followed the canons of high fashion, while remaining not just relevant, but overtaking the "trends" of his colleagues. The brand never released collections in the usual mode and made irregular shows just when the designer realized that he had something to show people. This is how he earned the love of everyone from journalists to artists, actresses and aristocrats.
Alaia brand is a combination of glamorous yet understated luxury, which is inspired by famous French creators, because that's where master Azzedine started his creative path. In his works there is also a slight gothic vibe and absolute sophistication. The brand's works are loved all over the world and we believe that each of us simply needs at least one creation of Alaia fashion.
